Always a Dining Pleasure at Black Cat

Boutique restaurant just off Boulder's Pearl Street Mall serves fine seasonal fare

Every time my husband and I dine at the Black Cat Metropolitan Bistro, we agree that it's never often enough -- and this time, joining two friends there, we told them that we always agree that it's never often enough. I think only the abundance of outstanding restaurants in Boulder keeps us from becoming more regular regulars.

The restaurant is small and cozy, perfect for long converstions and midweek lingering, which we did. Owner/chef Eric Skokan is on hand, in the kitchen dispatching, visiting with guests when he has time, all of which adds to the consistency and attention we have always experienced there. Many of the preparations are 21st-century adaptations of timeless dishes, and the presentation are consistently lovely.

We each ordered glasses of the wines we wanted to accompany a selection of diverse dishes -- some shared, some tasted from each others' plates, some kept possessively to ourselves. A Celery Root Bisque with Black Truffle Oil sent out as an amuse held us while we studied the small, ever-changing menu. Even though it lists just four Little Bites, seven appetizers/pastas, six entrées and four desserts, so much is so very appealing that it took us a while to decide. And, as always, we concluded that there's not a wrong choice to be made. Here are some of the dishes we ordered and devoured.

Highland Beef Schnitzel with herb spätzle, mustard jus and watercress


Seared Diver Scallops with red and yellow grapefruit, celery root and mâche

Crisp Bandade Cakes with olive oil-poached vegetables, parsley coulis and lemon

Pistachio Fiancier with Orange Confit and Crème Anglaise

"Little Bites" are $4-$9; appetizers and pastas, $8-$14; entrées, $16-$32, and desserts, $6.50. A five-course tasting menu is $62 ($99 with paired wines); seven courses are $71 ($109 with wines).

Black Cat Metropolitan Bistro is at 1964 13th Street, Boulder; 303-444-9110.