Ricky's Lucky Nuts: Peanuts from Heaven

Its easy to go nuts over these delicious dry-roasted peanuts

In 1981, the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory started in a storefront in downtown Durango, Colorado, not far from the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad depot. Look at it now: a public corporation, well over 300 franchise stores and confections with scores of flavors. Ricky's Lucky Nuts, established in 2006 on the other end of downtown, started a quarter of a century later and is already appearing on some of Colorado's store shelves.


Paul Gelose, a gifted chef with wide-ranging experience, over the years held various positions in the kitchens of the Stein Eriksen Lodge, Deer Valley, Utah; Hotel Adula, Flims, Switzerland; Kulm Hotel, St. Moritz, Switzerland; Sheraton Steamboat, Colorado. He slid over to Telluride where he ran the Powderhouse, Joe's Catering and Giuseppi's at the Plunge, and also worked in Chicago as Oprah Winfrey's personal chef in 1996-97. He moved to Durango to purchase the Palace Restaurant, also on Main Street between the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory #1 and Ricky's Lucky Nuts offices. Durango's Main Street is, in fact, a food row of sorts.

Gelose named the nuts after Rick Jensen, a fellow chef whom he worked with at Steamboat. Paul tried some of Rick's dry-roasted, seasoned peanuts, which he really liked. On the hand-written recipe from his friend, Paul scribbled, “Ricky’s Lucky Nuts." The the name stuck. Rick is now a chef in Hawaii at aTurtle Bay Resort restaurant, and Paul and his wife Carolyn Lamb are running the nut company and the restaurant in Colorado.

Ricky's Lucky Nuts are all natural, dry-roasted, sweet, spicy and totally addictive. The original flavor, officially called Original Style, is lightly salted, lightly sweetened and lightly spiced. Everything is subtle and balanced. There's a hot undertone (maybe wasabi, maybe pepper, maybe something else) and a spice combo that I can't identify.The Bombay Curry Coconut is more curry than coconut, which is just fine with me. I'm trying to pace myself, so I haven't yet opened the Spicy Chile Chipotle or the Black Pepper and Salt.

Ricky's Lucky Nuts come in 2-ounce and 6-ounce packages, available at Whole Foods, Tony's Markets, Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacies, independent grocers, special shops and even hotels. 1099 Main Avenue, Suite 105, Durango, Colorado 81301; 970-382-2264 or 888-RLN-NUTS (756-6887).

Ricky's Lucky Nuts: Peanuts from Heaven

Panzano: More Than Just a Pretty Face

Hotel restaurant's pretty new face can't eclipse the fine fare

Panzano has been one of my favorite downtown Denver restaurants ever since it opened. I love its refined northern Italian cuisine and also the way it accommodates any diner(s) from a soloist hanging out bakery counter or the bar to a private party in its own dining room. It recently became clear that the kitchen of this busy Hotel Monaco restaurant, which serves three meals every day of the year, needed a new floor and some other work. Without a kitchen, no restaurant can function, so redoing the dining room seemed like a good idea. I had always found it warm and inviting, but a Denver friend who is there frequently said, "That's probably because you were only there at night. If you had come during the day, you would have seen that it was time to spruce it up."

And spruce it up the management did. Panzano's owners emptied their piggybank for this just completed makeover, which miraculously was completed in just two weeks. Some of the seating was reconfigured, and the natural wood that predominated before was replaced with a pleasing neutral taupe or dark putty color, a few low-key pieces of framed art and a few punchy red tones on such diverse items as a sparkly chandelier and well-placed pendant lights overhead, carpet underfoot and even salt and pepper shakers. The decor is contemporary but still welcoming.

Dinner late last week showed off Panzano's new look, but unless they gilded the walls, nothing could outshine the food. Executive chef Elise Wiggins, who grew up in Louisiana (go Saints!) but has traveled extensively and cooked in many places, has a real affinity for northern Italian cuisine. She takes the freshest, most natural ingredients, prepares them exquisitely and presents them beautifully. A dinner at Panzano is always a feast for the eyes and the palate.

Hors d'oeuvres included Il Cannoli con Mouse di Formaggio (savory sesame tuile cannoli filled with Gorgonzola mousse top with cranberry compote and microgreens -- the color of the Italian flag encased in a crunchy cannoli tube. Served with it, and two other passed hors d'oeuvres, was Proseco Candoni Brut.

The two images directly below are two platters of assorted antipasti that followed. Starring on both were salumi and cheeses -- plus a supporting cast of grissini, olives, roasted garlic and more.

Savory zeppoli, are essentially Italian doughnut holes, here flavored with thyme and Parmesan. Avignonesi Vino di Montepulciano La Selva 2005, primarily a Sangiovese, was poured with all the components of this first course.

Chef Wiggins has committed to "nose-to-tail" use of animals. She buys certified Angus and Scottish Highlands steers from a Colorado ranch and uses as much as possible, as her family did when she was growing up in the country -- and as Italians do too. To that end, she offers Cuore Marsala, beef heart that has been dusted in porcini flour, seared and served with Hazel Dell mushroom risotto, Marsala sauce, crisp Prosciutto and again microgreens.

The Caesar Griglia consisted of more hearts -- this time, lightly hearts of Romaine lettuce, grilled lightly so that just the edges are browned but so that the rest of the leaves are crisp, with house-made garlicky dressing, Parmesan and real whole anchovies. Those of us who don't care these salty little fish passed them over to those of us who enjoy them..

Agnello con Gnocchi, lamb from the Triple M Bar Ranch atop gnocchi, dried cherries, Haystack Mountain goat cheese and spiced pesto made with pine nuts and mint instead of classic basil and more microgreens. The wine served with the Past e Secondi (i.e., entrée) course was Poggio Teo Chianti Classico Valiano 2004

Capasante con Risotto were large pan-seared sea scallops (not from Colorado, but approved on the Seafood Watch list) with risotto studded with golden raisins, thyme and something called lemon nage. I could"t find a reference to "nage" either on the Internet or in my Food Lover's Companion, but I think it must have been the savory tuile impaled in the risotto. But where or not I guessed right on that, the dish was wonderful -- and topped with still more microgreens.

The Dolce (dessert) course was an exquisitely decadent Lavanda Pate di Choccolato, a trio of slivers of lavender chocolate pate finished with sea salt, extra virgin olive oil, candied orange zest and whole toasted hazelnuts  but without microgreens. I've occasionally had coarse salt on a sweet dish, but never -- to my knowledge -- olive oil. As decadent as the dessert was the Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d'Asti poured with it.

Price check: At dinner, antipasti, $7-$18; soups and salads, $6.50-$7.50; pasta and secondi, $19-$28; dessert, $6. There is also a $45 five-course chef's tasting menu, which has to be one of Denver's best values. 

Panzano: More Than Just a Pretty Face

Kimi's Mountainside Bistro at Solitude

Echoes of urban dining at Utah resort restaurant

Kimi and Staffan Eklund are well-known among Salt Lake City foodies. They once owned Absolute! and also added Dijon, before pulling up stakes and relocating to Arizona. In 2008, they returned to Utah but to Solitude Mountain Resort in Big Cottonwood Canyon rather than the Salt Lake Valley. They took over the Creekside Café and renamed it Kimi's Mountainside Bistro, which might not mean much to visitors but resonates with locals. Kimi Eklund is as well known locally for design sensibilities as for her hospitality, reflected in the substantial furniture, great colors, tabletop items (including great-looking flatware) and art on the walls.

In addition to an interior style that is sprightly and welcoming, I'm betting that the large outside deck is fabulous come spring and even better in summer. But when I had lunch there a few weeks ago, it was the interior warmth and comfort that appealed. And so, of course, did the food. The menu abounds with soups and salads, appetizers designed for sharing, pizza, sandwiches and desserts -- just the sort of fare that punctuates a day on the slopes. The food under the direction of Matt Anderson, a talented chef, is as fine as the restaurant's style.

Cheese fondue, made with Jarlsberg and white cheddar and served with cubed bread and slided apples, is one of Kimi's Bistro's shareable dishes.

Another starter to share is Poblano Chicken Chili Cheese Fries, an inspired and sinful combination. The cheese, once again, is Jarlsberg.

OK. I know it's soup, but it wasn't mine but was ordered by someone at the other end of the table. I scooted over to take this picture, but I didn't make a note. Maybe the chantarelle mushroom soup -- maybe the soup of the day.

There's more to Kimi's cuisine than cheese dishes. This simple salad of mixed greens, diced tomato, shaved Parmesan and herb vinaigrette is as crisp as can be.

J.B.L.T. is a popular lunch sandwich consisting of jalapeño, bacon, butter lettuce and chipotle aioli on toasted ciabatta, served with fries and a pickle -- Kimi's spin on a classic.

And individual steak and Gorgonzola pizza on a puffed up crust makes for a he-man size lunch, even with a few greens on top.

Price check: At lunch, Greens, $4 (side salad) - $21 (an elaborate shrimp salad); soups, $8-$9; pizza, $17-$21; sandwiches, $14-$17; "Yummy Afterthoughts" (desserts), $7-$12.
 

Kimi's Mountainside Bistro at Solitude

Cooking Class for Kids

Young Food Network fan has a birthday coming up -- and Dad wants a special treat for her


A blog visitor sent me the following question:: "My daughter is 8 and will be turning 9 on the 18th of Feb. Her dream is to be a TV chef and she loves to cook. She is actually quite good. Her two favorite shows are Food Network Challenge and Ace of Cakes. Do you know of any events coming up in the next few weeks? I would like to take her to some sort of culinary event or enroll her in a cooking class as part of her birthday gift. Any ideas you might be able to help with would be greatly appreciated."

Here's my answer:

I don't know exactly where you live, so I don't know what would be convenient for you. But here are some thoughts. Boulder's Stir It Up Cooking School has many classes geared to youngsters, including after-school, holiday and weekend programs segmented by age. Also in Boulder, the Culinary School of the Rockies has scheduled "Cupcake Bash" classes for several upcoming Saturdays. You'd have to check whether it would be suitable for someone your daughter's age. In the past, they have also offered children's classes, but I don't know whether they do currently. Keegan Gerhard of Denver's D Bar Desserts has emceed the “The National Pastry Team Championships” and “The World Pastry Team Championships” in Las Vegas, shown on the Food Network, and also hosted the live Food Network Challenge Series. You might take her there for a special birthday cake and inquire in advance whether he will be around to meet her and perhaps autograph a picture or a menu. Hope this helps.

If anyone else has ideas, please leave suggestions as comments. This dad and his daughter would appreciate it.

Cooking Class for Kids

News Notes: Denver Restaurant Week and More

Denver Restaurant Week

During Denver Restaurant Week(s), February 20 through March 5, scores of metro area restaurants are offering special multi-course dinners for $52.80 for two ($26.40 per person). Check the website for links to individual restaurants and to many specific menus, and also online reservations. Popular restaurants fill up on peak days, so check often and book when something strikes your fancy.

Six Chefs Honored by the Colorado Culinary Federation

The American Culinary Federation Colorado Chefs Association (ACFCCA) and the Colorado Beef Council recently honored six Colorado chefs at a reception at the Governor's Residence for their use of Colorado ingredients. The honorees: Chip Johnson, The Warehouse, Colorado Springs; Andrew Lubatty, Avenue Grill, Denver; Brian Pruett, The Metate Room in the Far View Lodge, Mesa Verde National Park, Mancos; Tom Stoner, Spoons, Fort Collins; Char Modlich, Jus Cookin’s Restaurant, Lakewood; and Mark Fischer, Restaurant Six89, Carbondale. (Photo above courtesy of the ACFCCA) Other notable Colorado chefs who prepared the feast of honor: Chefs presenting are: Andres Jimenez, Ritz Carlton; Denver; Jean-Luc Voegele, Westin Tabor Center, Denver; Chris Rybak, A-Basin/Keystone, Colorado; Klaus Krebs, Isle of Capri Casino, Black Hawk; Wayne Smith, Mesa State College Culinary Program, Grand Junction; Joe Piazza, Cherry Hills Country Club, Cherry Hills Village; John Tusa and Jon Morpurgo, Sysco Denver Food Services; and Eric Evert, Grill Brokerage Company, Centennial. You might refer to the second group as the chefs who cooked for the chefs.

LoDo 's Bright New Burger Place

 H BurgerCo has reinvented the hamburger. This burger joint is no joint, but rather a chic, sleek and yet cozy new spot in LoDo, opening Friday, February 8. Managing partner Pete Pflum (formerly at Jax Fishhouse and Lola) and chef Ian Kleinman (formerly O's Steak and Seafood) who brought molecular gastronomy to Denver have contrived to combine high-quality ingredients with great atmosphere and great tastes. The kid in you can pair a beaut of burger with a milkshake and crayons, while the grown-up can wash it down with a liquid nitrogen-cooled draft beer. And the healthy nut in you can select a salad. 1555 Blake Street, Denver; 720-524-4345.

Seasonal Groceries in Highlands

Shannon McLaughlin and Todd Stevenson are two of the bravest people I can think of. Opening In Season Local Market is no more or less courageous than launching any business, especially in a recessionary economy. Opening a retail purveyor dedicated to selling foods grown or raised within a 250-mile radius of Denver on January 30 takes a lot of guts. Their  mantra is, “If it’s not from here, it’s not in here.” They believe in providing "great food without having to fly it around the world or ship it across the country." Having just finished reading Michael Pollan's In Defense of Food, I know that they are right -- but still, January! In Denver! You can check out the store any day of the week, because they are open weekdays from 2:00-8:00 p.m. and weekends, 12:00 noon-6:00 p.m. 3210 Wyandot St. (Highlands), Denver; 720-366-1544.

Wen Chocolates Shutting Retail Store

We are lucky in these parts (Denver, Boulder and beyond) to have numerous boutique and artisan chocolatiers, but Wen Chocolates has been one of the best since William Poole founded it in  the Ice House in 2003 and then moved to Platte Street in 2006. When the store's lease was up, Poole decided it was time to get out of the chocolate shop and on with the rest of his life, which might include television opportunities. Wen Chocolates will sell its last confection will sell its last confection on February 14 at 4:00 p.m. -- a poignant Valentine's Day for fans of these wonderful sweets. 1541 Platte Street, Denver; 303-477-5765.

Yaki Maki's Last Sushi

Yaki Maki, a small downtown Boulder sushi spot, is dark and has a "For Lease" sign in the window. The small restaurant on Walnut between Broadway and 11th Street originally housed PanAsia Fusion, which I loved, then PanAsia, which I sort of liked and finally Yaki Maki, which I never are at. I guess not enough other people did either. 1175 Walnut Street, Boulder.

Circle Closed; Abo's to Replace It

When Boulder pizza-master Steve Abo wanted to branch out, he opened Circle on Pearl -- a high-concept, high-style, Southern-California-looking but but ultimately ill-conceived restaurant. When Salt, The Kitchen, Juanita's, Tahona and Pasta Jay's on the same block just west of the Pearl Street Mall were cranking, Circle's bartender must have been pretty lonely. My husband I tried it once (click here for report) and were underwhelmed by the food and especially the service. Circle never gained traction, and now it's shuttered. A wise move, I think. There seem to have some one-shot club plans in the near future (similar to the space being leased for Halloween parties before the remodel was undertaken), but in late February or early March it will reopen as an Abo's Pizza -- perhaps a fancier one than other Abo's pizzerias, of which thee are 16 in the greater metro area. Downtown Boulder's current pizza offerings are lame. BJ's and Old Chicago -- both just down the street from the ill-starred Circle -- specialize in largely tasteless, mostly thick-crust pies.

Larkburger Coming to Tech Center

Larkburger, a Vail Valley-based quick-gourmet burger establishment, is planning to open its second Front Range outlet later this month. The newest Larkburger will be in the Denver Tech Center area at 8000 East Belleview Avenue. Larkburger is known for using quality ingredients and environmentally sound policies. In addition to the original in Edwards, there is already a Larkburger in Boulder. Click here for my post.

News Notes: Denver Restaurant Week and More

Troy Guard to Cook at NFL Anti-Hunger Fundraiser

Owner-chef of TAG Restaurant to represent Denver

Football players aren't exactly light eaters, but the well-fed gridiron stars of the National Football League have long taken anti-hunger campaigns on as their league-wide cause. The 19th annual Taste of the NFL, a fundraiser dinner for 3,000 people on February 6, will be a $500 a plate culinary extravaganza. This tastiest part of Super Bowl weekend raises hunger awareness throughout America, with proceeds going to Second Harvest Food Banks across the nation. The NFL calls it "A Party with a Purpose." There are 32 NFL cities, each represented by a local chef. Troy Guard of Denver's TAG Restaurant is in his rookie year at the sold-out Taste of the NFL event in Fort Lauderdale. The format is stroll, sip and sup, followed by live  entertainment by the Canadian alternative rock band, Barenaked Ladies.

Troy Guard to Cook at NFL Anti-Hunger Fundraiser

Burger Me! is Tops in Truckee

Fresh, natural, yummy and oh-so-local North Lake Tahoe burger joint

I've spent more than a week in the Reno-Tahoe area, mostly dining lavishly in top restaurants. After snowshoeing at Donner Memorial State Park a few days ago, a group of us had lunch in a super-casual burger joint in Truckee -- and it was every bit as good, natural and carefully prepared as the fine-dining restaurants I enjoyed. Burger Me! on the edge of downtown Truckee is owned by Tim Farina, Mark Estee (his initials are the Me! part of the name) and J.J. Baxter. Estee and Baxter also own Moody's Bistro, reputedly Truckee's finest (and considerably fancier) restaurant.

If Moody's is the finest, Burger Me! might just the most popular -- and with good reason. It opened in 2008 in an appealing made-over 1950s building (once Kirby's Cable Repair shop, later a produce market) across from the railroad is now made over with an appropriate hip retro look -- corrugated steel, red/white/black, hand-painted wooden chairs and humorous signs. But locals and visitors alike flock there for lunch and casual suppers or big, juicy burgers (beef, bison, turkey, ahi tuna and even a juicy veggie version), fabulous fries (the sweet potato fries are the best), salads, house-made iced tea and incredible milk shakes and malts -- and where else can you get a real malt these days?).

Burger Me! uses topnotch natural brands: Five Dot Ranch meats, Niman Ranch hot dogs, Durham Ranch bison, Diestel Ranch turkey and fresh produce (local and seasonal when possible), a selection of perfect condiments. Order at the counter and then pick up your food: burgers of choice wrapped in red and white paper and fries stacked on paper dishes placed on industrial-style metal trays.

Guy Fieri of "Divers, Drive-Ins and Dives" visited Truckee recently and chomped into the Truckee Train Wreck, a mega burger with chili, onion rings, cheddar cheese, a fried egg and probably something more that I've forgotten.  The episode has not aired yet, but Burger Me! and all of Truckee are quite proud and anticipating the show.

Price Check: "Burger Me!" (burgers), $5.95-$8.95; "Add Ons!", 50 cents-$1; "Sides!", $2.50-$3.50; "Combo Me!", add a fountain soda and a side, $2 adult and $1.50 kid; "Beverage Me!", $1.50-$5.

Burger Me! is Tops in Truckee